Well, we made it through all 1699 miles of California and are absolutely thrilled to be in Oregon! Only two states left! California, ranging all the way from the deserts near the Mexican Border to the record snow and life threatening river crossings of the Sierra Nevada to the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains in Northern California, was challenging and frustrating at times, gave us an immense education, and absolutely blew our minds across the board. We have had a blast! Now, it is time to gear our energy towards Oregon, one day and one step at a time. This is the ideal life for Bert and Ernie!
8/4
Finished with our chores in Etna, we decided to eat at the hiker-famous Etna Brewpub. After a great meal, we were offered a ride by Rob, a local patron, back to the trail. Thanks Rob! Reaching Etna Summit by 7, we only had an hour of walking left, so we cruised up to a beautiful, breezy saddle to catch one of the longest sunsets we have ever seen. Happy with our productive day, we climbed in the tent at 9 and quickly fell asleep.
13 PCT miles, 1610 S->N
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| Sunset from Ridge Above Etna |
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8/5
Up with the sun at 6 after an amazing meteor shower, Ernie turned to Bert to say mornin’ and was speechless…Bert looked like he took a solid jab to the right eye from Ernie last night. Turns out, Ernie couldn’t have left a mark like this black fly or mosquito did. Cyclops and Ernie hit the trail for a relaxed first 12 miles, passing by a few small lakes and encountering numerous wildflowers in the Marble Mountains. We came over a ridge and were in awe with the views of the massive, sparkling Deadman’s Lake, so we took a side trip down the steep slopes for a few casts. With zero success with the snoopy rod, we resorted to playing with salamanders and taking a bone chilling dip in the clear lake. We could have spent a couple weeks here, but hunger brought us back to the trail where we had left our packs. A quick lunch and we were off for an afternoon push. 19 fast miles flew by, and we were welcomed to our camp at Buckhorn springs by a massive fir tree and warm sunset. Under the canopy, we enjoyed a meal of potatoes and a couple handfuls of Oreos before passing out.
31 PCT miles, 1641 S->N.
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| Handsome Lad |
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| Marble Mountains |
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| Shasta Red Fir |
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| Running from the Storm |
The goal for today was Seiad Valley, just 21 miles away and 5000 feet below. The challenge, though, was to make it by noon to the café in this sleepy little village, to attempt, for better or worse, the infamous Pancake Challenge. Five 1 pound pancakes in 2 hours and the meal is free. We would be legends… We had been trying to wrap our minds around the challenge for the past 1600 miles and needless to say, were very nervous for the attempt. Basically running from the start, we shot out of the tent at 4:45 and hit the trail by 5:30. We descended hard, barely taking breaks for the next 6 hours, dodging poison oak and trying to calm our nerves before the Challenge. A 6 mile road walk on the scorching pavement of the valley floor nearly ripped the soles from our feet. We made it to the café by 12 and settled in… Like a zoo attraction, people crowded around us as the cook prepared the batter. Like something out of a science fiction novel, the first pancake went on the griddle. A woman nearby gasped, a baby cried, and a dog ran and hid under the table with its tail between its legs. These were no 1 pound cakes. Weighing in at around 2 pounds a piece, these cakes were the size of a large pizza! We shook our heads in disbelief. We tried hard…we really did…flattening each cake, dipping it in syrup and then with no saliva left, swallowing it down. After just two, we looked at each other, decided that this feat was not meant for mere mortals, and gave up….and with heads hung, we walked out. Defeated and incapacitated by the 4 lbs of bread in our stomachs and the 100 degree valley heat, we spent the afternoon in the shade at the RV Park and chatted with thru-hikers Hot Cheese, Escalator, No Knees, Turbo, and Herc. We said goodnight to this shameful day at 10 PM to get ready for the climb out tomorrow…
21 PCT miles, 1662 S->N
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| Pure Fear.... |
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| BIG Mistake! |
Anticipating a hot, long, steep climb out of Seiad Valley, we were up and on the trail before light. Dodging poison oak and leaning into the vertical slopes, we pushed about 4000 feet to a spring by 8 AM. Soon, our friend Turbo joined us to guzzle some cold water before finishing the 4500 foot climb. With the magnetism of the Oregon border, we flew all day, having 19 miles done by 12:30 PM and 28 by 4 PM. Four more up and down miles brought us to a large spring, where we cooked our monotonous meal of instant potatoes and hydrated for our final miles in California. As we approached the Oregon/California border signs, we stopped for a moment to decide if 1699 miles in California were enough and if we were quite ready to exit the second longest state in the U.S. Ernie suggested walking back to Mexico to get another look at the Golden State, but the thought was immediately crushed by Bert. Hand in hand, with hugs and screams of joy, we jumped the border with pure satisfaction and relief. Welcome to Oregon!!!! We signed the register and snapped a couple photos before a short climb to a logging road where we made camp under billowing, dark clouds and listened to rumbling thunder nearby. In celebration, we consumed a peanut butter and honey tortilla and a strawberry poptart before crawling into our 4x7 foot dwelling to enjoy pleasant dreams of the rolling, green Oregon miles ahead.
37 PCT miles, 1699 S->N
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| Donomore Meadow |
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| Hugs and High-Fives at the Border! |
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| Making Our Mark in the Register |
Excited for our first day off in 626 miles, we flew today. Originally planning to camp next to I-5 and hitch into Ashland tomorrow, we found that as we got closer the pull of a hotel bed and the bright lights of Ashland were too much to resist. Our first taste of Oregon walking was delectable, as we rode ridges with easy gradients on a cloudy, breezy day. Quite unexpectedly, we came around a corner shortly into the day to see a large 4x4 bull elk! Quite the site, but unfortunately we couldn’t get the cameras out fast enough to snap a picture. Hopefully, we see some more! Passing a soda cache, we loaded up on sugary goodness and completed the 28 mile day by 5 PM. We caught a quick hitch and decided to splurge and bought a two night stay at the gorgeous, historic Columbia Hotel in downtown Ashland. Showers and food followed, and we spent the evening sampling the nightlife of this beautiful city and celebrated the start of a new state.
28 PCT miles, 1727 S->N
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| Adam in a Field of Flowers |
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| Oregon! |
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| Bert and Ernie Thrilled to be at the Columbia Hotel! |
Today we are finally relaxing, writing a blog, eating as much as possible, and resupplying for our much anticipated leg to Crater Lake National Park starting tomorrow. We may even attend a show at the Shakespeare festival depending on how things go. Life is very good in Ashland, Oregon! Yet, we have made the transition, and the trail is now our desired home. It can be a grind at times, but we are enjoying the longer days and the push North. Thank you to all of the people out there that have been supporting our cause and showing interest in our journey.
Anticipated Itinerary:
Crater Lake, OR--103 miles (8/13)
Sisters, OR--154 miles (8/18)
Cascade Locks, OR--166 miles (8/24)
Due to a tight schedule, any mail should be sent to Cascade Locks, OR.Much Love,
F+A
Thanks for the wildflower show. Beautiful! And man, my tummy hurts just lookin at those cakes!! Congrats on Oregon!!!
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